Diyarbakir is a diverse city with bright tricolored flags dotting the urban landscape. Known widely by Turks as the Kurdish capital of Turkey, Diyarbakir is unlike any other place in the country; nowhere else will you find people so proud to be Kurds. Roz baś (good morning) and spas (thank you) are just two of the Kurdish phrases I learned while staying with a generous Turk/Kurd host family in Diyarbakir.
The city's most obvious and highly talked about feature is its black basalt walls that likely date back to the Roman times. Diyarbakir has been fortified by its current walls since the early Byzantine times (AD 300-500). It is also said to be second in length only to the Great Wall of China!
Diyarbakir's sur (city wall in Turkish) can be a bit scary with
few railings and staircases with a 10% grade. The manzara (panoramic view) from the wall is breathtaking, particularly at sunset. The colors of Diyarbakir's sunsets are so vibrant and
varied and unlike any I've seen in smoggy Istanbul.
Diyarbakir's sur (city wall in Turkish) can be a bit scary with
few railings and staircases with a 10% grade. The manzara (panoramic view) from the wall is breathtaking, particularly at sunset. The colors of Diyarbakir's sunsets are so vibrant and
varied and unlike any I've seen in smoggy Istanbul.
One of my favorite tourist spots in Diyarbakir was a bit off the beaten path: Ön Gözlü Köprüsü (Ten Eyed Bridge). Ön Gözlü Köprüsü is a ten-arched bridge over the mighty Tigris River (above). Apparently it has remained very low in recent years. The Tigris River is the eastern most river of the two great rivers that define Mesopotamia, the other being the Euphrates. In the Book of Genesis, the Tigris is one of four rivers branching off the main river issuing out of the Garden of Eden. It is said that if you write your greatest wish on a piece of paper and drop it into the Tigris from Ön Gözlü Köprüsü, your wish is taken directly to God. (I couldn't resist to participate in this wish endeavor, as evidenced in the left picture above.)
Rich in history and culture, Diyarbakir has no shortage of mosques and churches. The more unique mosques and churches quickly became my favorites, particularly the Şeyh Mutahhar Camii and the Meryem Ana Kilisesi. The Şeyh Mutahhar Camii built in 1512 is most famous for its detached minaret that stands on four slender pillars about 5 feet high – rightfully earning it the name most locals know this mosque by Dört Ayaklı Minare (Four-Legged Minaret). Meryem Ana Kilisesi, which translates to Mother Mary Church, is still used by Orthodox Syrian Christians today. The church is beautifully maintained and lovingly cared for. Flash photography wasn't allowed in the church, so please excuse the quality of those photos in particular.
Newruz was quite different than how I had celebrated 'Novruz' in Azerbaijan. The Newruz of Diyarbakir was less about the sweets and games, and more a declaration of independence and freedom for Kurdistan.
While I am not opposed to delving deeper into matters of Kurdish politics, this is a food blog and my intent here is to simply share my personal experience where the culture, food and people are central. Check out my recipes page for a look into making Turkish içli kofte (meat-filled bulgur dumplings) with the generous host family we stayed with in Diyarbakir.
And if you are at all considering a trip to Turkey's southeast or anywhere in the Anatolia region, don't miss Diyarbakir! (Or Mardin...post to come soon!)
While I am not opposed to delving deeper into matters of Kurdish politics, this is a food blog and my intent here is to simply share my personal experience where the culture, food and people are central. Check out my recipes page for a look into making Turkish içli kofte (meat-filled bulgur dumplings) with the generous host family we stayed with in Diyarbakir.
And if you are at all considering a trip to Turkey's southeast or anywhere in the Anatolia region, don't miss Diyarbakir! (Or Mardin...post to come soon!)